Why Preparation Matters More Than You'd Expect

Rabbits are often assumed to be low-maintenance starter pets, but they are among the most commonly surrendered animals to shelters — frequently because owners weren't prepared for what caring for one actually involves. A domestic rabbit can live 8–12 years, requires a specialized diet, needs veterinary care from a specialist, and demands far more space and social interaction than a cage in a corner provides.

This checklist is designed to close that preparation gap. Work through it before your rabbit comes home, not after. If you're also considering how rabbit care differs from other small pet setups, our guide on managing multiple small pets in one household covers how to balance care across different species.

Hay Is Not Optional

Unlimited grass hay must make up roughly 80% of a rabbit's daily diet. It provides the fiber needed to keep the digestive tract moving and wears down continuously growing teeth. A diet based primarily on pellets or fresh vegetables — without adequate hay — significantly increases the risk of dental disease and digestive problems. Keep hay available at all times, every day.

What You'll Need

Before you start checking off items below, make sure you have the right supplies in place. Improvising after your rabbit arrives creates unnecessary stress for both of you.

Required

Grass Hay (Timothy or Orchard Grass)

Forms the bulk of a rabbit's daily diet and supports healthy digestion.

Required

Paper-Based Litter

Provides safe, absorbent litter box material that won't harm your rabbit's respiratory system.

Required

Heavy Ceramic Food & Water Bowls

Sturdy dishes that resist tipping and are easy to clean daily.

Required

Hay Rack or Hay Feeder

Keeps hay off the litter area and encourages steady hay consumption throughout the day.

Required

Cable Management Sleeves

Protect electrical cords from chewing and prevent serious injury to your rabbit.

Optional

Wooden Chew Toys / Cardboard Tunnels

Provide mental stimulation and a safe outlet for natural chewing behavior.

Optional

Playpen Panels or Exercise Pen

Creates a secure, expandable free-roam area without permanent home modifications.

For a deeper look at why hay sits at the center of everything, see our companion article on rabbit digestion and why hay is non-negotiable.

The Full Preparation Checklist

Work through each group in order. The must items are non-negotiable for your rabbit's basic safety and health. Should items represent strong best practices. Nice-to-have items will improve quality of life as you settle in.

Living Space & Enclosure

Set up an enclosure that provides at least 12 square feet of floor space, with room to stand fully upright on hind legs. Must
Designate a larger rabbit-proofed area where your rabbit can roam freely for several hours each day. Must
Place the enclosure in a temperature-stable area away from direct sunlight, drafts, and heating vents; rabbits are sensitive to heat above 80°F. Must
Choose a solid-floored enclosure or cover wire floors with a mat or fleece to prevent sore hocks (pressure sores on the feet). Must
Position the enclosure in a low-traffic area where the rabbit can acclimate without being startled by constant movement. Should

Rabbit-Proofing

Cover or conceal all exposed electrical cords using cable management sleeves or cord protectors — chewing cords is a leading cause of rabbit injury. Must
Remove or relocate houseplants from any area the rabbit will access; many common plants including lilies, pothos, and philodendron are toxic to rabbits. Must
Block access to spaces behind furniture and appliances where a rabbit could become trapped or hidden. Should
Secure baseboards, furniture legs, and rugs you do not want chewed using protective covers or deterrents. Nice to have

Diet & Nutrition Setup

Stock at least a week's supply of unlimited grass hay — Timothy, orchard grass, or oat hay — before your rabbit arrives. Must
Purchase heavy ceramic or stainless steel food bowls and a sipper bottle or bowl for fresh water that cannot be easily tipped. Must
Research an appropriate daily amount of fresh leafy greens such as romaine lettuce, cilantro, and parsley to supplement the hay-based diet. Should
Avoid stocking pellets as the primary food source; if used, choose plain timothy-based pellets and plan to limit the portion to a small daily amount. Should
Set up a hay rack or hay feeder inside the enclosure to keep hay clean, accessible, and separate from the litter area. Should

Litter & Hygiene

Set up at least one litter box filled with paper-based or aspen litter — avoid clay, clumping, or cedar litters, which can be harmful to rabbits. Must
Place a handful of hay in or next to the litter box, as rabbits naturally eat and eliminate at the same time. Should
Plan a daily spot-cleaning routine and a full litter change at least twice per week to maintain hygiene and monitor your rabbit's droppings. Must

Veterinary Care

Locate a rabbit-savvy veterinarian — called an exotic or small mammal vet — in your area before your rabbit comes home, as not all vets treat rabbits. Must
Schedule an initial wellness exam within the first two weeks of bringing your rabbit home. Must
Ask your vet about spaying or neutering; the procedure reduces the risk of reproductive cancers and often improves litter box habits and behavior. Should

Enrichment & Socialization

Provide at least two to three safe enrichment items such as untreated willow toys, cardboard tunnels, or wooden chew blocks. Must
Research whether a bonded pair of rabbits might suit your household, since rabbits are highly social animals that generally do better with companionship. Nice to have

Not All Vets Treat Rabbits

Rabbits are classified as exotic animals in most veterinary practices, meaning a standard dog-and-cat clinic may not have the training or equipment to treat them. Failing to identify a qualified exotic or small mammal vet in advance can result in a dangerous delay if your rabbit becomes ill. Search for an ABVP-certified exotic specialist or ask your local rabbit rescue for referrals before your rabbit arrives.

Rabbit Digestion Is Easily Disrupted

A rabbit's gastrointestinal system is unusually sensitive — even a 12-hour disruption to normal eating patterns can escalate into a life-threatening condition called GI stasis. Avoid switching foods abruptly, and monitor your rabbit's droppings daily. Any sudden reduction in droppings, appetite, or activity warrants a prompt call to your vet.

After the Checklist: First Days at Home

Once everything is in place, give your rabbit time to adjust. Rabbits are prey animals — sudden movements, unfamiliar sounds, and too much handling in the first days can cause significant stress. Let your rabbit explore the enclosure on its own terms and resist the urge to pick it up constantly while trust is still being established.

If you have dogs or cats at home, introductions need to be carefully managed. Our guide on introducing a new small pet to a home with other animals provides a structured approach. Once your rabbit is settled, explore enrichment ideas for indoor rabbits to keep them mentally active and engaged long-term.

This article provides general educational information about rabbit care and is not a substitute for advice from a qualified exotic animal veterinarian. Always consult a licensed vet for questions specific to your rabbit's health and needs.